Dock & Roll
Budapest, the capital of Hungary, lies on both banks of the River Danube. So much for the textbook quote.
If someone has never been to Budapest, they might picture a tree-shaded riverbank with small bays suitable for swimming, a few quiet docks, fishing boats, and people enjoying carefree picnics.
Unfortunately, the reality is quite different. As the city developed, the Danube embankment in Budapest came to resemble an industrial zone—a endless line of boat docks and an ever-congested road acting as an “urban highway.” Local citizens and visitors alike have been largely cut off from the water, and swimming is strictly prohibited along the entire Budapest section.
Sometimes, however, the situation changes for the better. During the summer, the city administration closes a portion of the Pest embankment to car traffic between Margaret Bridge and Elisabeth Bridge—from 5:00 PM to 5:00 AM on weekdays, and all day on weekends.
This gives us a chance to get close to the water and enjoy a unique mix of cultural and gastronomic experiences.
As you step down onto the road, now free of cars, a lively strip of pop-up bars awaits. You can sit out on the terraces while the panoramic view of the Buda side unfolds right before your eyes. Behind the Royal Palace towering on Castle Hill, the sun is just setting, casting a gorgeous, soft glow over the historic complex.
Along the riverbank, small groups are grilling, while the melodies of street musicians wrap around you.
Between the smaller bars, it’s also worth visiting the permanently moored boat restaurants, which offer an international menu, excellent service, and unbeatable views.
Right at the foot of the Chain Bridge lies “Raqpart,” a popular open-air venue where well-known artists regularly perform evening concerts.
When your feet get tired, feel free to hop on Tram Line 2, which runs along the Pest embankment on what is, in my opinion, the most beautiful tram route in Europe.
The old Pest Danube Promenade (Dunakorzó) stretches in front of the grand hotels. From here, you can look down at the bustling evening crowd while taking in the sights of the Buda side: Gellért Hill, the Fishermen’s Bastion, and the Hilton Hotel.
Inside the historic Pesti Vigadó building, you can visit fascinating exhibitions, and during opening hours, head up to the lookout platform for an entirely new perspective on the city.
On warm summer evenings, the river quickly cools the daytime heat, and a gentle breeze almost always refreshes the air.
On the summer embankment, everyday worries fade away. You can give yourself over to a few hours of carefree relaxation, enjoy new music, or share a good conversation over a refreshing fröccs (wine spritzer) or a coffee.
The buzz of the summer riverbank, its diversity, the proximity of the water, and the matchless panorama rival any major European landmark. But best of all, it’s ours. From just a few tram stops away, we can embark on our own mini-vacation, returning home recharged and ready for the next morning.
By: Viktor Szentkiralyi