Busójárás: A Hungarian rite of winter’s farewell and spring’s embrace
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The vibrant festival of Busójárás in Mohács, Hungary, stands as a unique celebration with echoes in other global traditions. It merges the bidding farewell to winter, welcoming spring, enacting protective rituals, and celebrating themes of fertility. In this sense, it shares common ground with famed carnivals like Rio and Venice, and even some observances found within African belief systems.
In Mohács, a local legend entwines Busójárás with historical resistance against Ottoman rule. Sokác people, driven into marshlands during the occupation, are said to have crafted menacing masks and noisemakers, crossing the Danube under darkness to frighten away their Turkish oppressors. While this tale adds a heroic element, its historical accuracy is doubtful. Mohács’ liberation from the Ottomans occurred in 1687, with substantial Sokác settlement arriving later. Most likely, this Balkan group brought the seeds of the festivity with them, and the tradition subsequently evolved within its unique Hungarian context. Reliable records describing the custom date back to the late 18th century.
Traditional Busó garb evokes both rustic and fantastical elements. A hallmark is the inside-out short fur coat paired with straw-stuffed trousers, brightly colored stockings, and boots. Cowbells hanging from a waist belt or rope contribute to the cacophony. In their hands, Busós may brandish wooden rattles or maces adorned with feathers. However, it’s their intricately carved, expressively painted willow masks – sometimes bearing traces of animal blood – that truly define the Busó identity.
This blend of the archaic and folkloric in Busójárás serves several purposes. It channels ancient agricultural traditions of driving away winter and beckoning fertile renewal. There’s an element of playful disruption, subverting order as societal roles temporarily blur behind the masks. Moreover, while its precise origins remain layered in history and legend, Busójárás has undeniably become a vital expression of communal identity and celebration in Mohács and beyond.